Three Lodi Wineries Offering Authenticity and Intrigue

The Lodi region of California has grown wine grapes for over a century. This history has both burnished and oxidized its reputation. Lodi has some name recognition, but for a specific niche: high octane zinfandel and bulk filler for the kings, queens, and princes to the west, nearer the cool coast. Both because of and despite this storied past, growers new and historic have reenergized the brand “Lodi” with forward-thinking varietal plantings that better explore the potential of the region, while also proudly staking their claim as the rightful heir of old, entish zinfandel vines. Aspiring, trailblazing, and even avante garde, some of these producers now explore a spectrum of wines from broad-shouldered and proud, to vivacious and crisp.

Read the full article here at The Growler.

Workers in one of the many vineyards of the Lodi AVA in central California // Photo courtesy Lodi Winegrape Commission

Honest Wine without Waving “Natural Wine” Banner

Most grocery stores, chain liquor stores, and national restaurants sell wines made by the millions of cases—wines made with a recipe, a process more akin to making soda than wine. In contrast, “natural” winemakers have staked their claim as the antithesis to corporate plonk. While “natural wine” is a loose stylistic description, it is generally made from grapes grown organically or biodynamically by winemakers who subscribe to a no-additions and minimal (even no) intervention winemaking philosophy.

So-called natural winemakers wave a banner of purity and integrity. They claim to let the grapes alone dictate the wine and firmly believe less intervention leaves the wine more true-to-place, unique, and alive. A significant amount of press ink has been spilled telling the story of natural wines. And while no official natural wine certification exists, there’s an exclusivity to the club. You’re in or out, praised or… unnatural?

Read the full article here at The Growler.

Graham Nutter examining a glass of wine from Château St Jacques d’Albas // Photo courtesy Château St Jacques d’Albas

Minnesota in the Willamette: Minnesotans Staking Claim in Oregon’s Famed Pinot Noir Region

Pinot noir that seduces with satin-and-lace elegance. Riesling worthy of her exalted status as Queen of the White Wines. Chardonnay that walks a tightrope with both energy and grace. These are the kinds of wines coming out of arguably the most exciting wine region in the United States today—Oregon’s Willamette Valley.

Over the years, several Minnesotans heeded the call west in search of the finest grapes to make wine, and staked their claim in the sparse hillside soils of . . . .

Read the full article here at The Growler.

Morning fog in the Willamette Valley
Original photo by Matt Wieland,

9 Winter Wines for the Holiday Season

Holiday Wines

Cool Canadian winds have whisked in the holiday season, and with this churn comes a shift in wines to the more savory and layered. Many choose to jump directly into the depths-of-winter wines, like cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel. Instead, try something more transitional this month—wine that honors the elements, pairs with a variety of foods, and piques interest. . . . .

Read the full article here at The Growler.

First-Rate Second Wines

Caymus, Grgich Hills, Haut-Brion. These wineries, and others of their ilk, have worked tirelessly to build brand awareness. They start by crafting memorable and compelling wines, as all great wineries must. Then they travel, in the flesh and digitally, telling their story from hilltops and dales. With this work they build recognition, and garner top-tier price tags.

Many winemakers though, including those producing the most exclusive wines, share a serious respect for everyday wines. But the economics of selling handcrafted wines at everyday prices rarely makes sense. . . .

Read the full article here at The Growler.

People’s Wine

Real wine is hard to find. The charade that populates most store shelves is a group of elixirs, created to poke and tickle the right taste buds. Made in the vein of Pepsi or Fritos, these commodity wines typically showcase excessive fruit, residual sugar, and serious chugability. These are circus wines with circus labels, and the industry has created a sometimes-impenetrable wall of them—one that obscures the wines made by real people, from real grapes, for our honest pleasure . . . .

Read the full article here at The Growler.

Cold Climate Grapes Take Root in Waconia

By Stephen Ausmus (USDA employee)

As a thunderstorm rolls across the prairie, Ben Banks rests a finished bottle flat and deftly hand-labels his new vintage release. Disturbing the zen of the moment, he looks up to give me a warm handshake. Banks leads the winemaking at Sovereign Estate, his family’s winery established in 2008 on the north shore of Lake Waconia, situated 45 minutes west of  Minneapolis. Sovereign Estate comes highly recommended by friends in and outside the wine industry, as do neighboring wineries Parley Lake (2008) and Schram Vineyards (2013). It’s enough to pique my interest in the region, which is lauded for its soil, academic knowledge, and viticultural pioneers.

Soil and Successes

The existence of a thriving wine scene just a grape’s throw from the University of Minnesota Horticultural Research Center is no coincidence. “Our vineyard is five miles from the center,” says Steve Zeller . . . .

Read the full article here at The Growler.

A Note on Jancis Robinson’s Craft Wine Concerns

Jancis Robinson recently wrote an article defending winemaking as an innately “craft” process*, and displayed deep concern over beer and spirits capturing the hearts and taste buds of the younger generations of craft beverage consumers. Robinson clearly feels threatened by the upswing in craft beer and spirits. The threat may be real, but the source is much more expansive.

Wine has the history and allure to stand firmly on its feet. With 10,000 years of wine history and with the first winery dating to Armenia 4100 BCE, the record shows that homo sapiens have an affinity for wine. Robinson herself also rightly highlights how the confines of vintage – a single chance each season – set wine apart from spirits and beer. Winemakers must work with the weather and climate to produce a wine that will undoubtedly range in style and quality due to the growing conditions. Beer and spirits, on the other hand, can be made much more consistently with an ability to scale volume rapidly.

By Financial Times via Wikimedia Commons

The wine industry has reason for concern, and the rise of craft beer and spirits points to the heart of the issue without being the source. Craft wine costs more than craft spirits or beer. Craft wine starts at $12-$15, and more frequently sells for $20-$50 per bottle on retail shelves. This averages out to $4.00-$10.00 per drink SRP (5 oz pour). Craft beer often falls in the $1.50-$4.00 per drink (12 oz), and craft spirits cost $1.00-$3.00 per drink (1.5 oz). Simple economics pushes many younger drinkers toward craft beer and spirits – it costs less to enjoy something authentic, especially when drinking at home (also a trend that now pains the restaurant industry). My Millennial generation, of which I’m an elder, is the first generation to have “less” than our parents, and this will only become more evident as we age and retire. School debt, retirement woes, and slower and later wealth accrual adds up to a diminished economy for all. Craft beer and spirits enable younger generations to support smaller and local businesses while living within their means.

By Nik Frey (niksan)

At the same time, boomers are now moving into their fixed income retirements, and some are no longer stocking cellars. “If I buy Bordeaux or Barolo today, I won’t be alive to enjoy them in their prime.” Some are drinking their cellars down – not building them – and many will join suit soon.

And cellars will not be built by the younger generations as they were by their parents. We, the wine industry of which I am a part, should fear this. Concern over beer and spirits is misguided – it’s yelling at the river overflowing the banks, rather than the poor environmental stewardship that drained the wetlands.

I will keep enjoying craft wine and beer – though less wine than I would enjoy if societal and economic circumstances were different.

*While the bulk of the wine on the market is not craft, the majority of producers are. A few large corporations produce tens of millions of cases of wine. However, tens of thousands of boutique producers craft relatively small amounts of transparent wines.

Is Vivino a Dependable Source?

I have recently witnessed an industry wine buyer for a Minnesota retail account, and a multitude of wine consumers using Vivino to make wine buying decisions. For full disclosure, I am a “Featured User,” a designation given by Vivino to highlight a user as worthy of extra attention. Most Featured Users are wine writers or influencers. Having witnessed the increased use of Vivino to make buying decisions, I want to pause to test Vivino’s own claims, and ponder the growing power of this app.

Vivino suggests that their 5 star rating scale is equal to or better than the ratings publications like Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast. For one, Vivino publishes all ratings, and so we get to see the bad apples. This isn’t true for some publications. Additionally, we get more reviews from Vivino, as millions of public users review exponentially more wines than a limited number of professional critics ever can.

A chart comparing how Vivino's 5 star ratings compare to top ratings publications

Vivino ratings correlation chart

But do Vivino’s claims add up?

To test, I’ve logged in to my Vivino account and clicked through the “Best Wines under $20” in Minnesota, the “Best Wines between $20-$40” in Minnesota, and a smattering of other wines I’ve recently reviewed. Then I compared them to reviews in Wine Enthusiast (public) and Robert Parker (subscription). I’ve preferenced Wine Enthusiast, as it is a public source. The findings, which are compared to the above chart:

Best Wines under $20

  • E. Guigal Côtes-du-Rhône 2013                                                             
    • 3.6 stars (3356 ratings)          87 points Robert Parker
  • 1000 Stories Bourbon Barrel Aged Zinfandel 2014                                 
    • 4.1 stars  (7674 ratings)        90 points Wine Enthusiast
  • J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2014  
    • 4.0 stars (2673 ratings)      87 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Bogle Phantom 2014                                                                               
    • 4.0 stars  (1278 ratings)        90 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc – Viognier 2016                                               
    • 4.1 stars  (578 ratings)          89 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2016                                                     
    • 4.1 stars  (3510 ratings)     89 points Wine Enthusiast

Best Wines between $20-$40

  • Meiomi Pinot Noir 2016                                                                     
    • 4.0 stars (8463 reviews)      88 points Wine Enthusiast
  • La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2015                                             
    • 4.1 stars (1491 reviews)         90 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Michael David Freakshow Cabernet Sauvignon 2015                             
    • 4.1 stars (243 reviews)           90 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2014                                                           
    • 3.9 stars (6756 ratings)          90 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon 2013                                                   
    • 4.0 stars (210 ratings)         88 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Ferrari Carano Siena 2014                                                                   
    • 4.0 stars (1127 ratings)       87 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese 2014                                           
    • 4.0 stars (1036 ratings)          91 points Wine Enthusiast

Selection of my Recently Reviewed Wines

  • A to Z Wineworks Chardonnay 2015                                                       
    • 3.6 stars (126 ratings)       88 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay 2015                       
    • 4.1 stars (26 ratings)      92 points Wine Enthusiast
  • El Molet Jumilla 2013
    • 3.6 stars (18 ratings)         86 points Wine Enthusiast
  • Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée La Migoua 2006
    • 4.3 stars (34 ratings)         93 points Robert Parker
  • Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot Noir 2016
    • 4.0 stars (394 ratings)       89 Wine Enthusiast

Screenshot courtesy of Vivino

A few data points stand out. First, ratings do have a strong correlation between Vivino and Wine Enthusiast/Robert Parker. 66% correlate within 1 point of Vivino’s chart. When the points fail to align within 1 point, Vivino typically scores the wines higher than the traditional publications. This rings true to my experience when using Vivino. Of the six wines out of alignment, five have higher ratings on Vivino.

Also of interest, note that the “Best Wines” segments created by Vivino (block 1 and 2 of data), all have massive numbers of ratings. Clearly the algorithm favors volume when deciding which wines qualify as “Best Wines.” On the flip side, three of the five wines randomly pulled from my recent reviews have a low number of ratings. Even those with more ratings pale in comparison to the (multiple) thousand reviews of the other wines.

This raises a question. Does more mean better or, in this case, “best”? I typically argue no. However, a wine’s accessibility matters when creating a public platform for the masses. With that said, lower production wines have often been crafted with a more careful touch. Do all like the result of low production wines? No. Many prefer the consistency and centrist styles made by larger producers.

To Vivino or not to Vivino? Do you value the data? Clearly millions do. I will continue to use it as a public source with a slick interface for researching a new bottle. As for reviews, it is a tool I will continue to use—one of many.



Riesling Rising – Weinbau Paetra

Willamette Valley Pin . . . No. Stop there. Riesling. Willamette Valley Riesling. For winemakers and the wine obsessed, this combination brings little surprise. For most, Riesling sounds like an afterthought in the land of world-class Pinot Noir. Enter Weinbau Paetra. Buy, pop, swirl, and see.

Bill Hooper vine tending courtesy of Weinbau Paetra

Bill Hooper worked his way into a few fine wine shops before starting with The Wine Company, a well-regarded, independent distributor of fine wines. After marrying a German gal, he eventually flew the coop and spent time in Pfalz, Germany studying viticulture and winemaking at the Wine and Agricultural school in Neustadt an der Weinstraße. He is one of only two American graduates in the 115 year history of the school. After returning stateside, Oregon became the clear mecca for a rabble-rousing Riesling producer. He founded Weinbau Paetra, a micro-production label crafting uncompromising Riesling (and more). Expect to find Bill’s wines in fine wine shops across the Twin Cities metro and Portland, and you can’t find finer American-made Riesling. The “K” Riesling, his entry wine and an homage to the Kabinett Rieslings of Germany, will give you a taste of what to expect. After tasting, you’ll explore further. I’ve known these wines as cult-worthy, and after tasting more broadly understand that the money can follow the mouth.

I had the fortune of attending the 2017 Willamette Barrel Auction, a lavish, riotous event featuring some of the top producers in the valley. At the after party, magnums galore graced the bar. 1999 St. Innocent Seven Springs Vineyard and Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2012 Alexana Revana Vineyard Pinot Noir, Adelsheim 1993 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir. It was a hell of a night. The showstopper? A bottle of 2001 Chehalem Riesling (Ridgecrest, I believe, and possibly 2000). Age had treated the wine oh so kindly. Petrol, steely minerality, and a dash of fruit weaved itself into a mesmerizing work of art.

Riesling has captured the attention of somms and wine explorers. If you have an interest in figuring out why, while adding some affordable, cellar-worthy bottles to your stash, give a go with Paetra’s Riesling lineup.

Maceration time courtesy of Weinbau Paetra